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أنا من القمر – Jordan Pt 10 – Death Of An Endangered Arabian Oryx From Eating Plastic Bags

Dr.Cotton examines the dying Arabian Oryx - Wadi Rum, Jordan - ©Uchujin-Adrian Storey. All Rights reserved.

The Arabian Oryx became extinct in the wild in the early 1970s and has been slowly reintroduced since 1980. The vast majority of them however still exist in protected reserves and the IUCN Red List still classifies the species as Endangered as only just over 1000 exist in the wild.
One such protected reserve is in Wadi Rum, Jordan and it just so happened that whilst staying at the Canary Hotel in Amman, I met, Dr. Cotton, a lovely woman vet who was living in Aqaba and working at the “Arabian Oryx reintroduction project” so when she invited me to join her on a trip to Aqaba and to stay at her house I jumped at the chance.

The next day I was lucky enough to accompany Dr. Cotton and Dr. Montaser (A Jordanian vet also working at the project) into the protected Oryx enclosure in Wadi Rum as there was a sick animal that needed immediate attention. This was quite unusual as the area is closed to the public and it was only because I was there at the invitation of Dr. Cotton that I was allowed to enter and document what transpired over the next few hours.

On arrival we found the clearly sick animal with a distended abdomen lying in the shade next to a cliff, making no attempt to evade human contact.
Over the next 1 1/2 hours the two vets did what they could to save the animal but it quickly became apparent that it was not going to survive.
Dr. Cotton was wonderful in explaining to me throughout what they were doing and why she was sure that without immediate surgery, which may well have been to late at that point and impossible to perform out in the desert, the animal was not going to survive.

After the animal passed away (which I admit was pretty hard to watch) it was loaded into the back of the pickup truck to be taken back to the Reintroduction project’s lab to have an autopsy performed to discover the exact cause of death.

It was to be the first time I had ever witnessed an autopsy and having been a vegetarian for more than 20 years it was not something I was really looking forward to, but the chance to photograph the story of this amazing looking endangered animal and discover the cause of it’s death meant that of course I was going to stay until the end.

I tied a scarf around my face, much to the amusement of the Bedoiun guides and the Doctors, but I knew that whatever smell was coming when the animal was cut open I wasn’t going to enjoy it and I wanted to be able to keep working without throwing up. Amusingly within a few moments of the autopsy beginning the smell forced all the Bedoiun men to leave the room, but due to my trusty scarf I managed to keep my breakfast where it was supposed to be and document the entire process.

As the autopsy progressed and the stomach was cut open the cause of death became very clear – a huge mass of chewed and torn plastic bags had blocked the animals digestive system leading to “a clinical gastrointestinal catastrophe ¹ “. A diagnosis of “rumenal obstruction by foreign body, superimposed on which was rumenitis and subsequent peritonitis ² ” was made.
An endangered species in a protected reserve out in the desert dying from eating plastic bags? How could this happen?
As noted by Dr. Cotton in her report “The management of the enclosure is to be commended on their attempts to keep the enclosure clean and the presence of bags is likely to occur from being blown into the enclosure from outside the fences and borders. ³“
Many domestic and livestock animals in the region (and worldwide) die each year because of ingesting plastic bags, a horrible and preventable loss.
(Much has been written on the damage to marine life but the death of land animals is less well covered but according to Dr. Cotton equally as common)

When the autopsy was over the cut up pieces of the body of the Oryx, minus it’s head which was to be kept at the project, were loaded into the back of the pickup truck and we were driven back to Aqaba.

Here the final shocking moment of the whole experience occurred, not knowing what else to do with the carcass of this beautiful animal, the remains were dumped into a street bin to be taken away the next day with the garbage collection!
It was a strange end to the saga which had begun a few hours before as we drove into the enclosure.

The whole experience left me with some interesting photos, an increased knowledge of the Arabian Oryx, my first autopsy experience and a shocked look on my face as the body of the creature was unceremoniously dumped into the garbage and Dr. Montaser and the driver pulled away into the warm sunshine of a small back street in Aqaba.

The photo gallery below contains graphic images of an autopsy, you have been warned!

(Italised notes:- ¹, ² and ³ are quotes from Dr. Cotton’s report on the incident and are used with her permission)

A big thank you to Dr. Cotton and Dr. Montaser for giving me the opportunity to visit the enclosure and watch them work and a special Thanks and a big hug for Dr. Cotton for her hospitality, friendship and excellent conversation while I was in Jordan.

Don’t forget to check out the other posts in the أنا من القمر – Jordan series:-

أنا من القمر – Jordan

أنا من القمر – Jordan Pt 9 – Wadi Rum

After the man made wonders of Petra we headed a little further south to the spectacular natural splendor that is Wadi Rum.

T.E. Lawrence described it beautifully in his book “Seven Pillars Of Wisdom” :-

The crags were capped in nests of domes, less hotly red than the body of the hill; rather grey and shallow. They gave the finishing semblance of Byzantine architecture to this irresistible place: this processional way greater than imagination…….
Our little caravan grew self conscious and fell dead quiet, afraid and ashamed to flaunt its smallness in the presence of the stupendous hills.

It is (to use the word again) an awesome place. Red/Orange sand and huge rock formations rising out of the desert. The silence only interrupted by the jeeps of other tourists of which there were thankfully few.

There can be few experiences more calming and beautiful than spending a night on a mattress on a sand dune under the stars as the moon illuminates the mountains around you and waking up at sunrise to the mountains glowing in the morning light.

The video shot again with the trusty GoPro suction cupped to the bonnet of the jeep and some panoramic photos of the stops along the way.
The music was sung and played by an unknown Bedouin musician and was recorded in Petra.

Special thanks to Hussein from wildwadirum.com who was our driver, cooked us a wonderful lunch in an amazing spot and was a very funny man.
Big thank you to the couple who shared the trip with us too ( yep I’m talking about you A and T! ), truly lovely people who became fast friends and made the trip even better by giving us some smart interesting people to share the experience with.
(T thanks for getting us down from the rock bridge! would have been a whole lot scarier without ya ;)

Don’t forget to check out the other posts in the أنا من القمر – Jordan series:-

أنا من القمر – Jordan

أنا من القمر – Jordan Pt 8 – Petra

The Treasury / Al-Khazneh at night, Petra, Jordan ©Uchujin-Adrian Storey.

I’ve seen some pretty amazing places in my life, places that have stopped me in my tracks as I stared slack jawed in amazement. Often the horribly overused word “awesome” escapes ones lips at these moments and yet there are few places that truly “inspire awe”.
Petra IS one of them.

All most people know of Petra they learnt from Indiana Jones, but this really does the epic Nabataean city a disservice as it is SO much more than the amazing temple hewn from the rock face known as the Treasury.
We owe our knowledge of the almost 3000 year old city, populated at its heyday by around 30,000 people, to a real life Indiana Jones – a young Swiss explorer, J.L. Burckhardt who in 1812 ended the hidden city’s isolation by riding in disguised as a Muslim holy man.
(Burckhardt was a pretty amazing fellow, he is also credited with re-discovering the Ramases II temple at Abu Simbel in Egypt as well as exploring Mecca and Medina in disguise all before he died of dysentery in Cairo in 1817 at the age of 33, just 5 years after his ride into Petra)

There is no denying that the first sight of The Treasury (known to the Bedouin as Al-Khazneh) after the 1.2km walk down the 200m high, 2-3m wide canyon known as the ‘Siq’ is a magical one, especially if as we did, you do it for the first time at night, when the Siq is lined with candles.
The sense of entering some magical hidden city is made even stronger knowing that the Siq is the only real way in to the ancient city that spreads over a vast area of the surrounding mountains and wadis.
(Technically the Siq is not a canyon as it was not carved out by water but is a fissure in the huge single block of rock formed by tectonic forces)

The Treasury gets it’s name from a story that an Egyptian pharaoh hid his treasure in the urn in the middle of the second level, but in fact it was a tomb for the Nabataean King Aretas III.

From Al-Khazneh the Siq curves off to the right and the true Petra adventure begins.
We walked for about 17km one day and saw all the ‘big name’ attractions but it was clear that there was so much more to see.
Whilst exploring I constantly thought that this was once a city, not a temple or some mausoleum, but a living, breathing city. It must have been truly a spectacular place when the Nabataeans were living there in their thousands.

It would take weeks if not months to explore everything this incredible site has to show you and the mere 48 hours I spent there has left me with a feeling of wanting more unlike I have ever experienced from a ‘World Heritage’ site before.
In fact it made me think that all “World Heritage” sites are not created equal. Some I have been too are frankly a bit “meh…” but Petra I know will live in my memory forever.

Words and indeed pictures can never convey the wonder of standing at the high place of sacrifice, or the satisfaction, after 900 steps, of the amazing views from up above the Monastery.

You’ll just have to go there yourself.

Trust me, you will NOT regret it.

Don’t forget to check out the other posts in the أنا من القمر – Jordan series:-

أنا من القمر – Jordan

أنا من القمر – Jordan Pt 7 – Amman to Petra on The Desert Highway

 

One advantage of not taking the bus for the 260km trip from Amman to Petra is that you can attach your GoPro to the bonnet of the taxi and take a time lapse of the entire journey.
Mix that in with some stills taken along the way and what you get is the video above.

The two notable stops along the way were:

Shobak Castle – Built by the crusader king Baldwin I in 1115 AD, it withstood numerous attacks from the armies of Saladin before finally falling in 1189 after an 18 month siege. It was occupied in the 14th Century by the Mamluks who built over several of the original crusader buildings.

Siq Al-Barid – Known more commonly as ‘Little Petra’, a 400m long siq (Arabic: shaft or canyon) opens out into larger areas with buildings carved into the rock faces including one known as ‘The Painted House’ which contains some faded but still interesting frescos which are a rare example of Nabataean painting.
Thought to have been an agricultural center, trading suburb and resupply post for camel trains heading to Petra.
Well worth visiting before heading to Petra itself as it gives you a small taste of the wonders to come.

Don’t forget to check out the other posts in the أنا من القمر – Jordan series:-

أنا من القمر – Jordan

أنا من القمر – Jordan Pt 6 – The Dead Sea

Finally a post about my Jordan trip where I make it out of Amman! Only about an hour away though, Just as far as the lowest point on the Earth at 408m below sea level – The Dead Sea.

Firstly a few facts:-
The Dead Sea is not in fact a sea, but a lake.
At 31 % salinity (9 times the oceans) it is the 2nd saltiest body of water on Earth after Lake Aral in Djibouti.
The Dead Sea is 3 million years old.
It has shrunk by 30% in recent years (at a rate of 1/2 meter a year) due to evaporation and the demands of the potash industry.

It is a spectacularly beautiful colour, and the salt rocks formed around it’s edges add to the feeling of being in some alien environment.
A crazily buoyant dip in it’s waters is all one imagines it would be and covering oneself in its (allegedly) healing mud a small tourist indulgence that was as much fun as it looks.

Take it from me though, do not get the water in your eyes as the 30m dash up the red hot beach to the fresh water showers feels like miles and you feel even stupider the second time.

It was also a strange experience for me to be gazing across to Israel/Palestine on the other side having done exactly the same the opposite way more than 10 years ago. In Jordan with it’s 30% Palestinian population the reality of the Israel/Palestine problem is never far away and to bob effortlessly in The Dead Sea gazing across to what are essentially occupied lands is a slightly surreal experience.

Anyway, a few pictures.

Don’t forget to check out the other posts in the أنا من القمر – Jordan series:-

أنا من القمر – Jordan

أنا من القمر – Jordan Pt 5 – Amman – The Canary Hotel

The Canary Hotel Sign - ©Uchujin-Adrian Storey. All Rights reserved.

In my travels there are certain hotels, not the opulent and comfortable but ultimately faceless ones, but the cheaper more full of character ones, that have left an indelible impression on my memory, stories can be told (some not in polite company) about them and occasionally years later I wake up from a particularly vivid dream upset to find that I’m not in the hotel room I was dreaming of.
The “Navrang” in Delhi, The “Hotel California” in Khatmandu, “Thai Thai” guesthouse in Bangkok, The “Regale Internet Inn” in Lahore and The “Z hotel” in Puri to name just a few. The scenes of some of the greatest experiences and the best friendships of my life have begun in these places and many of them will remain with me till I make it to a rocking chair on a porch somewhere to reminisce.
Well now I have a new one to add to my list of places of which I sometimes dream.
I’m speaking of “The Canary Hotel” in Al Weibdeh, Amman, Jordan.

Set in a quiet residential neighbourhood a 5 minute service taxi ride from downtown Amman, The Canary, thanks in large part to it’s friendly and wonderful staff became what all great hotels become to me, truly a home away from home, a base from which to have adventures.
What started as a one night stay after our taxi driver from Petra, Faleh ( A GREAT guy, please use him if you are ever in Jordan, you won’t regret it) dropped us off there turned into me staying for over a week, not my initial plan at all.
It’s a clean , cheapish place (22JD a night for a single, roughly $30 U.S.) with breakfast included, it has some fantastically kitsch art on the walls of the lounge and stair wells, satellite TV in the rooms and the lounge – good for keeping up with Al Jazeera while in the middle east, free WiFi (Take note expensive hotels-Paid WiFi is taking the piss) and some lovely lovely staff. Oh and they have beer!
It also seems to be one of those places that attracts a singularly interesting clientele, from Pakistani helicopter pilots to 80 year old Indian chemical engineers, each with a story to tell.
(It’s also where I met the Australians who I ended up getting rocks thrown at with, and the vet who took me to watch the autopsy of an endangered Arabian Oryx-coming soon!)
Throw all of these things together and you have the kind of hotel that chapters in autobiographies are made of.

The Canary, like all good hotels, has an accessible roof. In this case underutilized except for satellite dishes and water tanks, but after creeping through the tiny room at the top of the stairs where one of the night staff slept I was rewarded with sweeping views of Amman and a perfect spot for what quickly became a daily ritual of watching the sunset. Such a simple pleasure to watch the sun go down and yet one I rarely if ever get to enjoy in my daily life.
So it was everyday, to the strains of the call to prayer, I cracked open an Amstel beer and alone on the roof of my adopted home watched the huge orange sun disappear behind a cityscape that it burnt into my memory.

Special mention has to be made of Samer, the palestinian guy who works the morning shift serving breakfast and manning the desk. I had some truly spectacular conversations with him and quickly felt a bond of friendship unusual in its simple mutual respect.
When I finally left we hugged and I felt genuinely sad to be leaving a friend.
As much as I have liked most of the staff at the hotels that will form the chapters in the autobiography I’ll probably never write, Samer stands alone.
Samer, my brother, I know you will read this, so to you a special thanks. Inshallah we meet again soon.

Canary Hotel, I salute you and I hope some day to revisit your hallowed hallways not just in my dreams.

Some pictures (all shot either on iPhone 4 or the digital Harenezumi):-

The Canary Hotel
Al Karmali Street
Jebel Al Weibdeh
Tel: +962 7 4638353/4638362
Email: canary_h@hotmail.com

Be sure to check out the other posts in the Jordan series:-

أنا من القمر – Jordan

أنا من القمر – Jordan Pt 4 – Amman – “Innocence Of Muslims” film U.S. Embassy Protest Sep 14th 2012

 Not content with nearly dying at The Australia vs. Jordan football game a few days before, when protests at the American made idiotic, offensive and inflamatory “Innocence Of Muslims” YouTube film erupted across the Muslim world, I thought…………
“Hey!, I’m in a Muslim country, why don’t I go down to the U.S. Embassy?”……..

So, just before the end of Friday prayers I found myself outside the U.S. Embassy in Amman, Jordan (one of the largest U.S. Embassies in the middle East).

Police outside U.S. Embassy Amman, Jordan Sep 14th 2012 - ©Uchujin-Adrian Storey. All Rights reserved.

The Police presence was huge and intimidating, armored vehicles and hundreds of officers in full riot gear formed a perimeter around the embassy and many more Police were on hand to ensure the protest here did not end up like those in other countries in the region.
(It’s worth noting that not just at the protest but the whole time I was in Jordan the Police were some of the nicest I have ever met anywhere in the world. Usually not my favorite people (somewhere on my shit list between rapists and child pornographers) they were polite, courteous and at no point did I see any displays of unnecessary force which the police in the rest of the world seem to think is acceptable behavior. I’m not saying it doesn’t happen, just that in a month there I didn’t witness it or hear of it from anyone.)

Riot Police outside U.S. Embassy Amman, Jordan Sep 14th 2012 - ©Uchujin-Adrian Storey. All Rights reserved.

Riot Police outside U.S. Embassy Amman, Jordan Sep 14th 2012 - ©Uchujin-Adrian Storey. All Rights reserved.

Riot Policeman backed by armored vehicle outside U.S. Embassy Amman, Jordan Sep 14th 2012 - ©Uchujin-Adrian Storey. All Rights reserved.

Riot Policeman with tear gas gun walks outside U.S. Embassy Amman, Jordan Sep 14th 2012 - ©Uchujin-Adrian Storey. All Rights reserved.

Soon after Friday prayers ended at the Mosque up the road people started arriving and the crowd began to swell. Banners were hoisted and chanting began – “Death to America” and “Allah hu Akbar” being the only ones I actually understood. Even at it’s most crowded point there was maybe only 150-200 protestors there and although the anger was very real, almost disappointingly, I never felt in any danger. Sure there were a few dirty looks from the obviously more hard line elements, but not a single rock was thrown ;)

Protestors outside U.S. Embassy Amman, Jordan Sep 14th 2012 - ©Uchujin-Adrian Storey. All Rights reserved.

Protestors (2) outside U.S. Embassy Amman, Jordan Sep 14th 2012 - ©Uchujin-Adrian Storey. All Rights reserved.

Protestors (3) outside U.S. Embassy Amman, Jordan Sep 14th 2012 - ©Uchujin-Adrian Storey. All Rights reserved.

Protestors (4) outside U.S. Embassy Amman, Jordan Sep 14th 2012 - ©Uchujin-Adrian Storey. All Rights reserved.

Protestors (5) outside U.S. Embassy Amman, Jordan Sep 14th 2012 - ©Uchujin-Adrian Storey. All Rights reserved.

Protestors drive past the U.S. Embassy Amman, Jordan Sep 14th 2012 - ©Uchujin-Adrian Storey. All Rights reserved.

It’s difficult not to feel some empathy with these protestors, especially the ones in Amman who remained non-violent.
If a Muslim made a similar film about Jesus then I’m sure the Christian right in America would be equally outraged, and that’s even before we take into account the bombing and killing of innocent civilians that’s been perpetrated by the U.S. and it’s allies in the region and beyond.
What happened in Benghazi cannot in any way shape or form be condoned but the demonization of the entire Muslim world by the West and it’s media can’t be either.

It bears repeating that “one mans terrorist is another mans freedom fighter”

Be sure to check out the other posts in the Jordan series:-

أنا من القمر – Jordan

أنا من القمر – Jordan Pt 3 – Amman – Australia vs. Jordan World Cup Qualifying Football Match – 12th Sept 2012

 Australia vs. Jordan World Cup Qualifying Football Match - 12th September 2012 - ©Uchujin-Adrian Storey. All Rights reserved.

The day my wife left Amman was quite an emotional one, on the one hand I was sad to see her go (a few minutes sat on the steps of the hotel fighting back the tears, even though I’d see her again after only 2 weeks) and on the other hand that exhilerating sense of being alone in an unknown foreign country where all that there was was possibility.
Of course the possibility part is great but, it’s the alone part that doesn’t always suit (I’m a pretty social guy) so I wasted no time in inviting myself to sit with the table of westerners enjoying the warm evening in the front garden of The Canary Hotel later that day.
That one small act of pushy friendliness led to friendships that lasted the rest of my time in Jordan (and hopefully for long to come) and to some pretty crazy situations.
The first of which was the Australia vs. Jordan World Cup qualifying match attended by 16,000 people at the King Abdullah International Stadium in Al Qwaismeh, Amman.

The table I had forced myself on turned out to be full of Australian volunteers on the A.V.I. programme who were mostly only in Amman for a few days before heading off to their placements in other places in Jordan and beyond.
A very friendly bunch who after a few beers invited me to join them at the Australia vs. Jordan football match that was occuring the next night and for which they had free tickets courtesy of the Australian embassy.
Having never been to a football match and always in search of a new experience and some new friends, I quickly agreed. Though if I’d known what was going to transpire I may have said I was ‘washing my hair’ that night.

So it was that the next evening the 8 of us (3 men and 5 women) arrived at the stadium in 2 taxi’s after a 20 minute drive. We arranged a spot for the taxi’s to meet us after the game (oh, the wishful thinking!) and headed off in search of the Australian fans entrance amidst a sea of excited and boisterous Jordanian supporters decked out in Jordanian flags and face paint. The presence of the 8 westerners quickly drew attention and we were followed to the gate by hundreds of locals.
It felt overwhelming but not threatening but I guess I should have known from the huge Police presence that even if I wasn’t scared of the crowds the Police knew something I didn’t.

Police waving "no photos" at the Australia vs. Jordan World Cup Qualifying Football Match - 12th Sept 2012 ©Uchujin-Adrian Storey. All Rights reserved.

The game itself was quite exciting and it was fun to watch the 90 % Jordanian supporters in the crowd erupt into singing, dancing and flag waving as their team fairly comfortably but a little unexpectedly ended up the 2-1 victors.

Australian fans at the Australia vs. Jordan World Cup Qualifying Football Match - 12th Sept 2012 ©Uchujin-Adrian Storey. All Rights reserved.

Australian fan with Australian flag at half mast at the Australia vs. Jordan World Cup Qualifying Football Match - 12th Sept 2012 ©Uchujin-Adrian Storey. All Rights reserved.

It was clear from the noise and fireworks and the huge numbers of people who had scaled the floodlight towers and fences to watch that the figure later given of 16,000 attendance was at least matched by people outside the stadium who hadn’t been able to get in.

People without tickets scaling the fence to watch the Australia vs. Jordan World Cup Qualifying Football Match - 12th Sept 2012 ©Uchujin-Adrian Storey. All Rights reserved.

The atmosphere had been great and during the game as I headed over to the fence dividing the Australian and Jordanian fans, I passed many Jordanians on the Australian side wearing “I love Jordan” T-shirts yet waving Australia flags and once I reached the fence the Jordanian fans were eager to have their pictures taken and nothing but smiles.

Jordanian fans (1) at the Australia vs. Jordan World Cup Qualifying Football Match - 12th Sept 2012 ©Uchujin-Adrian Storey. All Rights reserved.

Jordanian fans (2) at the Australia vs. Jordan World Cup Qualifying Football Match - 12th Sept 2012 ©Uchujin-Adrian Storey. All Rights reserved.

The real story for us however began as we left the stadium after the final whistle.

Even from the small gate of the Australian enclosure to the actual exit gate of the stadium it became clear that the atmosphere was a little different outside. The thousands of supporters who hadn’t been able to get into the stadium were a lot more rowdy and as everyone poured out of the stadium the crowds quickly became huge and the group mentality that I had previously only experienced at large stadium rock gigs began to be felt by all of us as we looked at each other a little nervously and struggled to stay together in a group amidst the chanting and singing.

Once we exited the stadium things quickly became less friendly as the women began to complain of being groped by the mass of people that surrounded and followed us as we tried to make our way back to the place we had agreed to meet the taxis. I was very happy I had stashed my camera away in my bag and tightened the strap before we exited as suddenly I too felt hands grabbing at me and trying to take my wallet from my pocket, pulling on my bag trying to remove it from my possession. The crowd seemed to go from mildly threatening due to it size to hostile in a matter of seconds as I found myself pushing guys away as they grabbed at me and the women. We made a b-line for a police car we could see parked 50 or 60 meters away as the grabbing turned into kicks and angry shouts in Arabic. By grace, good luck and the help of a few Jordanian people in the crowd who valiantly tried to protect us we made it to the police car where we and the car were immediately surrounded by hundreds of chanting Jordanian fans.
One of the Australian guys who was much more dark skinned and less conspicuous darted off before we could stop him saying he was going to find the taxi drivers and get them to come closer to the stadium. The 2 policemen, thankfully doing their jobs well bundled all of the women but one (a slightly butch Arab/Australian woman who I hadn’t spoken too much but looked like she could look after herself and spoke fluent Arabic) into the car and pulled off through the crowds taking the women to safety.
Unfortunately that left me, P****** and S**** (the woman) stood in the middle of a crowd of several hundred less than friendly fans about 50m from the nearest entrance back into the stadium.
Before I had time to think several large Jordanian guys surrounded us and tried to deflect the grabbing arms and kicks that began to rain down and shouted what I later discovered to be “RUN” at us in Arabic and pointed to the gate. I didn’t need telling twice. With their help, without which I dread to think what would have happened we made it to the safety of the gate with only a few kicks and punches to remember the short trip by. Inside were thousands more fans streaming out of the stadium but also about 30 policemen and Jordanian army who quickly pushed us off to one side, protecting us, gave us water and cigarettes and apologized repeatedly for their countrymen. An unnecessary but warmly received gesture.

For 45 minutes as the crowds dispersed a little we spoke to the women by mobile phone, relieved that they were ok, smoked nervous cigarettes, listened to the continuing rukus from outside the stadium walls, bonded over what had just happened and waited anxiously for A***, the Australian guy who’d left to get the taxi driver to return.
Finally (and Thankfully) A*** arrived with the taxi driver, both of them looking a little shaken.
Due to the crowds the taxi driver had been unable to get his car anywhere near the prearranged meeting point and had been waiting 5 minutes away realizing that there was little chance of us making it to him unmolested.
As we were all ok and the crowds seemed to have thinned out a little, though I did hear several gunshots and moments before the taxi driver had arrived some disturbance had caused 20 or so police and army men to run out of the gate looking like they were on a mission, the police suggested that we leave with the taxi driver and walk straight to the taxi without stopping and go home.
Once again, I didn’t need telling twice.

The four of us were barely 20 meters from the gate when the first rock flew past narrowly missing my head, I stopped and turned to see where it had come from only to watch the 15 year old, 5 meters away who had thrown it release another one that struck me on the chin. Instictively I yelled out words to the effect of “you little fucker” as A*** rightfully grabbed me and forcefully told me to keep walking and not provoke the gang of youths that was following us.
It was too late, the rocks started to rain down hitting all of us including the taxi driver. I was hit in the back of the head, my shoulder and most painfully in the ankle as we increased our pace and finally made it to the taxi some 3 to 4 minutes away. Helped again by some Jordanian guys, one of whom was a mountain of a man, we jumped into the taxi as the youths surrounded it still throwing rocks and after a few tense moments the taxi sped out of its parking space sending bodies sprawling.

We were safe.

The drive back with the windows down was one of my favorite taxi rides for a very long time.
The dual carriage way in the opposite direction was at a standstill for miles as the Jordanian fans hung out of car windows singing, waving flags and celebrated their countries win over Australia.
As the adrenaline wore off slowly the our taxi became very quiet as we sped back to the hotel.

The beer lubricated post mortem of the evening lasted until way past bed time as we bonded over our recollections of what had just happened and how lucky we were it hadn’t had a far worse outcome. I slept well despite the bruises that night and the heartfelt apologies, free food and gifts I received from Jordanians over the following week have gone a long way to mutating my memories of the evening into just another good travel story that I’ll tell a thousand times I’m sure. But if I’m honest there were a few moments when I was genuinely scared in the way only being a white boy in the middle of an angry mob in a foreign country can make you. My bravado will say otherwise but don’t believe it.

Oh and the moral of the story? the lesson learned?

Never, NEVER go to football matches, even if you get free tickets.

 

***Here is a little video from the night, shot on GoPro and Harenzumi (more on this later)……at some point I put all the cameras away and just ran, big wet girl that I am, when rocks are flying at my head my first instinct is to protect the hard earned cameras and stay alive not what the best angle is or how stable the footage is, so sue me.***

 

 

 

Be sure to check out the other posts in the Jordan series:-

أنا من القمر – Jordan

أنا من القمر – Jordan Pt.1 – Amman – The City

I’ve just returned from an amazing 3 1/2 week trip to Jordan, I have so many stories to tell, some of which will be appearing here over the next week or two and some of which you’ll have to meet me in person to hear ;)
The momentous task of editing 158 GB of photos is underway and I will be showing some of my favorites here, broken up so no-one has to pretend they’ve looked at 100 pictures in one sitting :)
And so we begin with Amman, the capital of Jordan……….

Amman is a city of 2.8 million, almost half the population of Jordan of which 31% are Palestinian refugees.
It is a beautiful city, the almost uniform beige colour of the buildings augmented by the clear blue skies and incredible orange light at either end of the day.
The downtown area retains much of its charm and what really makes the city feel welcoming is the hospitality and friendliness of the Jordanian people.
People stop you everywhere you go to ask you where you are from, welcome you to Jordan and offer you a cup of tea or coffee, completely without pretense or ulterior motive. For someone used to traveling in Asian countries it is a revelation to not have to be on guard for the inevitable attempt to extract money at some point in the conversation. Rarely have I felt so safe in a big city (apart from a few isolated incidents, to be blogged here soon).
The food is wonderful and for a vegetarian like myself it is easy to eat well, great salads (e.g. the fantastic Fatoosh) and buckets of Humus and Falafel.

So, the first of many photo sets, Amman-The City

Be sure to check out the other posts in the Jordan series:-

أنا من القمر – Jordan

Cycling In Tokyo – Irresponsibility + Incompetence

I have been cycling for more than 20 years and have always loved it as a form of exercise, as an ecological way to commute to work or just for fun.
I have cycled in several big cities around the world and I consider myself to be a competent and considerate road user.
Until very recently I had never had any kind of accident and have never been stopped by the Police anywhere in the world for breaking cycling laws.
So it is with some consternation that I have recently been seriously considering no longer cycling in Tokyo.

The short film above attempts to elucidate why.

Cycling in Tokyo is far more dangerous than anywhere else I have ever cycled, simply because of other cyclists.
It may sound like vitriol to some but as stated in the video, the vast majority of cyclists in Tokyo are criminally irresponsible in their use of the roads.
Regardless of laws it would seem to be simple common sense, graspable by all but the most idiotic of cyclists that cycling the wrong way down a major 4 lane road at night, with no lights, with headphones on whilst texting on your phone is at best irresponsible, but I see this and comparably dangerous acts on a daily basis.
Breaking a law that places others in serious danger should, I think everyone would agree, carry stiff penalties.

The problem in Tokyo is made much worse by the fact that despite there being adequate laws and penalties in place the Police do almost nothing, even when witnessing these crimes directly. The willful incompetence of the Police makes them complicit in the 150,000 accidents involving cyclist that occur every year.

As much as I love cycling, when the situation is such that even if I obey all the road laws and am considerate of other road users and pedestrians I am still taking my life in my hands due to the stupidity and criminality of others and the seeming inability of the Police to do anything about it, I am forced to consider the worst every time I get on my bike.

I don’t want to stop cycling in Tokyo, but given the situation, what am I supposed to do?

(I would be happy to hear from other Tokyo cyclists regarding the issues raised here in the comments)

A few facts from the voice over in the video in case you missed them:-

In Japan it is Illegal to:-
cycle whilst drunk,
on the wrong side of the road,
with no front light and rear reflector at night,
whilst wearing headphones,
using a mobile phone,
with an open umbrella,
with a passenger over 6 years of age and on most but not all sidewalks.
These crimes are punishable by up to 5 months in prison or fines ranging from 20,000 to 1 million Yen.
However less than 100 people were charged last year, fewer than the number charged for murder.

There are more than 150,000 Accidents a year involving bicycles, one of the highest rates in the world.

Approximately 800 cyclists are killed a year.

40% of cyclist fatalities are caused by cyclists ignoring red lights or stop signs.

More than 20% of all road traffic accidents involve cyclists.

Several pedestrians are killed and about 2500 are injured a year by cyclist on sidewalks.

(Sources:National Police Agency Of Japan and General Insurance Agency Of Japan)

Filmed using a GoPro Hero 2 over the course of 7 days in Tokyo.
I did not go out looking for these scenes, I merely attached the camera to my bicycle whenever I went anywhere and took it with me whilst walking.

So many crimes were recorded that it would have been impossible to include them all, the edited video would have come out at something like 11 minutes!

I’ve come to wish you an unhappy birthday

It’s just a number right?

350,000 hours give or take since that Saturday in 1972 when I was unceremoniously thrust into this scene from a Goya painting, the moment, it seems when humanity was first awarded the title “suffering humanity”, at least for my poor father who missed an episode of Doctor Who to be there.

Those 350K hours have contained I’d say a fairly evenly split at this point between complete fucking wastes of everyone’s time on the one hand and soaring luminous speech defying wonderment on the other.

I’ve been so high and danced for so long that I literally became one with the Gaian mind, I’ve cried like a baby at 5,850m as I left items from friends old and new at Drolma La, the highest pass of the Mt Kailash Kora in Tibet, thereby removing all the negative karma accrued in this life, I’ve backed away smiling with calm detachment as the Taliban fighter pointed his AK47 at me and shouted in Pashtun in a gun and hash market in Peshawar Pakistan, I’ve had a tiny glimpse of what the Tibetans call emptiness after 5 hour meditation sessions in monastery overlooking the Kathmandu valley in which I could no longer feel my legs, I’ve crossed moral boundaries in Bangkok that would cause the Marquis de Sade to give me a high-five and I’ve seen attack ships on fire off the shoulder of Orion………ok not that last one

I could go on, I mean I haven’t even mentioned wrestling with a lion in Pakistan, hanging out with the Dali Lama or hurtling helmet less on a motorbike on a road with no safety barriers in the Himalayas and being so close to death from the oncoming insane truck driver that I could literally see the dirt under his finger nails.

The decisions I have made to get here have meant that I have never been and probably never will be financially rich, but that experientially I feel like I make the Forbes rich list.

And through it all I’m quietly proud that my version of “My way” is far more Johnny Rotten than it is Frank Sinatra.

John Paul Satre wrote “hell is other people” and believe me Jean Paul would be hard pressed to beat me in a misanthropy contest but I think he was only half right.
There are places and people who will live inside of me their phosphorescent memories slowly mutating and fading till this body returns to the earth and some part of this consciousness that I call “me” returns to the wheel of life and my next birth as a cockroach.

But all of the things I’ve seen, the places I’ve been mean nothing if there is no-one to share them with.

I wish some of you had known me 20 years ago, I was a lot nicer then, No! really I was, but now, to borrow a line from Bob Dylan, “if my thought dreams could be seen they’d probably put my head in a guillotine”. I’m an angry, cantankerous, opinionated cunt most days.

There are days when I feel like Hamlet via Richard E. Grant, that all I want are the finest wines known to humanity and I want them here and I want them now, that this brave o’erhanging firmament, this majestical roof fretted with golden fire – why, it really is nothing to me but a foul and pestilent congregation of vapours
But on those days there’s always someone I can call to remind me of how lucky I am to be alive.

So, I raise a glass to you, here, to all of my dear friends not present here and those from the past who I still love to this day and all those others who have lit my path to this day, for you are what has made reaching this day worthwhile.

Thank you.

( a little speech I made at my birthday picnic yesterday)

Four and a half hours in twenty three seconds – A tattoo timelapse

As an early birthday present to myself I got a new tattoo to add to my growing collection.

This one is special for a couple of reasons:-
The birthday it marks is one of those “big” ones that frankly is disturbing the hell out of me, I know it’s just a number but the less said about it the better.
It is a buddhist quote because my involvement with Buddhism which began over 10 years ago was like taking the red pill – once I’d heard the words I knew nothing would ever be the same again.
It’s in (a stylized version of) Hindi to celebrate the years I have spent in Mother India the country that after all my wandering is still easily my favorite country in the world and feels on some deep level more like home than anywhere.
Unlike all my other tattoos it’s in a place where everyone will see it which is my way of finally saying, screaming “fuck you” to everyone who has ever judged me by the way I look.

So, in celebration and to mark the event of getting it a short timelapse compressing the 4 1/2 hours it took into 23 seconds.

Oh and the meaning?
“You will not be punished for your anger, you will be punished by your anger”

The hilarity of which will not escape anyone who knows me.

Huge thanks as always to Abdullah Taqy, my tattooist and dear friend.

Big thanks also to Billy Gomez for the music “Act 1”
soundcloud.com/mindtouchbeats

Fluterscooter & Friends – “The Fast and the Fluterious, Tokyo drift”

Fluterscooter & Friends – “The Fast and the Fluterious, Tokyo drift” – Live at the Apple store Ginza, Tokyo, April 17th 2012

A few weeks ago I was contacted by Trevor Williams, a photographer based in Okayama and best known for his lightpainting work and asked if I’d like to film an event that was being put on by “Fluterscooter” (a Julliard trained flute player from the USA with an impressive list of credits) which involved live video lightpainting and various other musicians including a Taiko player and a beatboxer.

It sounded intriguing and I thought it would be an interesting exercise to shoot it and produce a short piece about the show, so I said yes.

The nature of the show, which involved Trevor lightpainting with video using a system he developed himself meant that there were some challenges to filming in that it would be very dark and I couldn’t use additional lighting as it would interfere with his lightpainting system.
Time was also a factor as the whole team including ‘Fluterscooter’ aka Andrea Fisher, would only be at the venue for a few hours before the show, so filming some (very) short interviews and enough B-roll would be a challenge.

In the end, I’m happy with what I managed to produce in difficult conditions, the show itself was interesting, the musicians were all very talented and friendly and that made for a fun evening.

Fluterscooter – Flute
Trevor Williams – Lightpainting
Dokaka – Mouth Music
Kazuhiro Namba – DJ
Eva Kesner – Taiko Drums
Erico Itoi- Keyboards
Masao Hirata – A/V Technician
Adam Munnings – Choreographer / Dancer
Jordan Kilik – Dancer

Special thanks to the Apple store Ginza Staff

One year on: 3/11

I really I wish I had just 1 Yen for every column inch that has been written or is going to be written about the ‘mega-disaster’ that hit Japan a year ago today.
If I had another Yen for every self-serving ounce of hyperbole ……well let’s just say I wouldn’t be eating radioactive vegetables for dinner tonight.

The farce that has unfolded in Japanese politics and society since that horrible day that took so many lives in its wall of water and the irresponsible, downright criminal lies and incompetency that surrounds the handling of the Fukushima Daiichi nuclear “incident” over the past year are so unbelievable that to begin to enumerate them seems an impossible task.

A year later the devastation to Tohoku and the continuing international fear over the global effects of the ‘World’s worst industrial disaster’ (as if not calling it a  nuclear disaster somehow lessens its impact) ensure that “Fukushima” will go down in history in whispered tones reserved only for that other expletive “Chernobyl”

And yet, what has really changed here in Tokyo?
The half-hearted so-called ‘sakura revolution’ which produced some of the biggest demonstrations Japan has seen since its Police beat the student protestors to a pulp in the 1960’s was neutered from the start by a culture that allowed the same Police, with their cuddly orange cartoon logo and condemned by Amnesty international detention practices, to break even 50 or 60,000 strong marches up into nice comfortable little pockets that wouldn’t affect the shopping habits of the 99.999% of Tokyo’s 13 million residents who were carrying on as usual.
The milk, vegetables and rice that were suddenly incredibly cheap and well within (swiftly recalibrated) radiation limits sat unpurchased except by the most hardcore of the 我々日本人 (we Japanese) brigade for a few short months only to fly off shelves once the latest bordering on child pornography AKB48 single had distracted the national attention away from the potentially generations long threat that was silently permeating every nook and cranny of their existence.
The loud, guilt inducing calls for energy-saving in the wake of almost all of Japan’s nuclear reactors being shut down have faded away to be replaced by the same 30ft video screens advertising the latest J-pop schmultz everywhere you turn and the huge department stores with their air conditioners running full blast but doors wide open just as they were before March last year.
The brief flirtation even ordinary Tokyoites had with not trusting every word that comes from the mouths of their politicians or TV news presenters has been forgotten too. In this week leading up to the anniversary, International media has been doing a passable if slightly sycophantic job of trying to unravel what exactly the effects have been on Japan whilst the biggest story in the Japanese media has been of escaped penguins.

The people of the Tohoku coast will be dealing with the devastation and after effects for generations to come.
The 20km exclusion zone around the Fukushima Daiichi reactor complex will probably never be safely inhabitable again.
Children from areas nearby will tragically grow up with a far greater chance of developing various cancers and will no doubt be stigmatised in the same way the victims of the Minamata disaster were before them.
The reconstruction of the area by the incredibly selfless work of the numerous volunteer groups that have sprung up will take decades.
No one in those areas worst affected will be forgetting the disaster and the criminal incompetency of the authorities in the wake of it for a long time.

Yet here in Tokyo, the Japanese people had a brief window and more than 600 greater than M5 reminder aftershocks to shake themselves out of their comas and genuinely change aspects of their culture and society that desperately need to be jettisoned like the rotten old dead wood that they are. A chance to ensure that the institutionalised failures and lies that have allowed TEPCO and the government to pull the wool quietly but successfully back over the eyes of all but the most militant, and therefore destined never to be listened to members of the society, would never be allowed to happen again.

It was unfortunately a chance that they didn’t take, in Tokyo at least the 250km to Fukushima seems to be an awful lot further than it was a year ago when we were glued to our television screens trying our best to believe that the plumes of smoke billowing from the stricken reactors were as safe as the announcers were telling us they were.
That added sense of distance means once again that what is out of sight stays firmly and dogmatically out of mind.

I Love You But…..

Allow me to present a short music video for your delectation.

“I Love You But…” is a song I wrote and recorded more than 10 years ago and it is one of the pieces I still love most from my time as a musician.
I’ve recently been frustrated by a couple of stalled documentary projects and needed to do or learn something new before I went crazy, so I’ve been studying 3D modelling software and After Effects.
Anyway, the video above is the result of my meddling.

Who is the song about? Now, that would be telling………..

Do you get paid for your job?

For my inaugural post of 2012 I have a happy story.
A little out of character I know, but this one is good and is all about why you should stand up for yourself and your work.

****PLEASE NOTE – All the name’s have been changed to protect the innocent and I am writing this with consent of the person whose emails I will quote****

Most of us have received one of those “can we use your picture for free?” emails, and frankly recently they seem to be on the increase, to the point where I have started to get a little rude.
Below is an email I received from a well-known newspaper about a week ago:-

Hi Adrian

 I’m putting together an online XXXXXX  for (Name of newspaper) in the UK, and was pointed in your direction by XXXXXXX.  We’re doing a piece on the best photoblogs in the city, and would like to include you!
 
We’ve picked five bloggers/photographers, and are asking each person to pick their two favourite images of the city, with a sentence on why they’ve picked that image. I know your images can be quite dark, but we’re looking for stuff that shows the wonderful side of Tokyo, even if it’s wonderful in a weird/twisted kind of way!
 
I’m afraid we don’t have a budget for this, but will make sure that the image and caption credits links directly to your site (or whatever page you wanted).
 
How does that sound? Ideally, we’d need your choices by the end of this week.
 
Looking forward to hearing from you,
 
Thanks!
XXXXXX
 
 
It was to be honest a bit of a dilemma as I didn’t want to say No, but I am not prepared to give my work away for free, after consultation with some friends and a bit of thought I eventually replied thusly:-
 
 
Hi XXXXXX,
Thanks for your mail, which I’m just getting to now because of the time difference.I appreciate your interest in my work and interest in including me in the piece but it has left me with a bit of a dilemma.I am not really a blogger, I am a freelance professional photographer and film maker. This is my job. This is how I put food on my table.

Usually when I receive requests to use my photographs for free I reply like this:-

“Dear Sir/Madam,
In response to your email I would like to ask you a question, Do you get paid for your job?

I thought so, then please don’t insult me by asking me to do mine for free.

Yours sincerely
etc”

And yes, I usually send it out word for word.

You would be surprised how many organisations suddenly find they do have a budget for photography after receiving that mail.
Of course many don’t, but one is tempted to think that the ones who never reply were not worth the effort anyway.

So here is my dilemma.
I love (Name of newspaper), a long time ago in a country far far away I used to buy a physical print copy (oh how quaint;-) at least 3 times a week.
I read regularly online and know several people who work there.
I would love to see my work in (Name of Newspaper) , or at least on the website.

I don’t really want to send you the “do you do your job for free?” mail, but I also think it is very important that photographers stand up for themselves and their work when requests like this come in.

As far as I can see there are 3 solutions to this problem:-

1) (Name of Newspaper) suddenly finds that they do have a budget for photography for this piece, even if it was a small token budget of say XX quid a picture that may very well be enough.

2) You, despite getting paid for your job, write back saying “sorry, really don’t have any money” or more likely don’t respond to this at all and choose someone else.

3) We reach a compromise as people. You are asking me for my work for free, so I ask you for something. Not you “web producer at (Name of newspaper)” but you personally “XXXXXX”.
I say that if you reach into your own pocket and donate say £XX to the Japanese Red Cross for disaster relief in Tohoku northern Japan, then I will send you 2 pictures and agree to them being used in (Name of newspaper) on a onetime limited use licence for free.

I look forward to hearing from you and I will prepare the pictures ready for sending in the hope that options 1 or 3 are your choice.

Yours Sincerely

Adrian Storey

I was quietly proud of myself for this response and to be honest was just expecting option 2 (“sorry, still no money f&*k you”) as the reply.
I couldn’t have been more wrong.
 
About 2 days later I was having a drink with some friends when 2 emails arrived almost simultaneously, the first informing that a donation had been made in my name to a Tsunami relief fund and the second:-
 

Adrian

You are unquestionably right, and I’m sorry for creating this dilemma.
 
A have donated to a Japan Tsunami relief charity – you should receive an email from them soon, as it was made “in your honour”.
 
I’m also going to offer a £XX commission to you and all the other bloggers who take part. I know this is not much, but it’s already further than we should be stretching  – but if this is not enough to justify you allowing us to use the images, I fully understand.
 
Once again, sorry. And thanks. 
 
XXXXX
 
Now I say, respect where respect is due.
I really wish I could name this guy because I feel he deserves some recognition for being such a star.
A donation and paying me and the other contributors from a starting point of “it’ll be good publicity, but sorry no money”?
Legend.
Total.Fucking.Legend.
If I’m back in the UK I so owe this guy a beer.
Thanks for being such a professional and a damn good guy brother (if you are reading this you know who you are ;-)
 
The moral of this story?
DO NOT GIVE YOUR WORK AWAY FOR FREE!!!!
Sometimes all it takes is to calmly state why you feel you should be paid and the person requesting your images will do the right thing.
 
If a few more people did this perhaps our industry wouldn’t be being eroded away by amateurs who buy a “nice” camera , think that makes them a photographer and are happy to give their low quality work away for the ‘publicity’.
 
I hope this is a taste of things to come this year, keep those requests coming and keep paying me when I ask.